March 25, 2010
1222 4th Ave N
Nashville, TN 37208
Last week I returned to City House with some friends, while my better half was off eating in Asia. The Pickled and Fried team had gone to CH when it first opened and never returned. It was finally time to give City House a second chance. The place has a sense of urban cool that is lacking in Nashville restaurants , despite the bright but environmentally sound lights. We started dinner with cocktails, two Sazeracs $9 and one “The C.C.” $10. “The C.C.,” a surprising mix of Absinthe, Prosecco, and orange zest, was delicious but would have been better as an after-dinner drink. The anise flavor tends to coat the tongue and not relent throughout the meal. I started with the little neck clams and cauliflower dish $11. I am not the biggest cauliflower fan, but the texture and taste of the cauliflower blended nicely with the white wine sauce. These were some of the best clams I’ve had in a long time. Ggg had the potatoes and gorgonzola $9, which were tasty, and El had the radicchio and sweet potato salad $7, with butternut squash instead of potatoes. The squash and radicchio didn’t make the best pair. My main course was the Margherita pizza with pork belly $9. The belly ham could have been crispier, but the pizza crust and sauce were perfect.
I made a point of asking them to hold the salt. If you talk to anyone in the know about City House, you’ll learn the chef is heavy with the salt. Best to safeguard against the extra salt with a direct request. Ggg’s Painted Hills brisket $24 was far too salty and nothing special. El’s special pasta with beef ragu was light and delicious. By far the weakest dish was the Cruze’s Chocolate Milk Panna Cotta with Cocoa Crispy Rice & Almond Granola $7. It tasted like a bland breakfast concoction of chocolate milk and cereal. I’ll keep going back to City House. Its one of the few places in town to get an excellent pizza and sophisticated Italian fare. These ambitions are definitely worth supporting.
City House, if you are reading this, enough with the salt!