As much as we’re anticipating warm weather and the abundance of seasonal vegetables, we’re excited for the new organic market opening up in the new 12th and Paris development (which will also house a new gourmet burger joint, Burger Up).  We don’t have many details about the market, other than the speculation that it should be opening up in a month’s time.

Fish Tacos for Dinner

February 28, 2010

We found some fresh mahi mahi and figured we’d make some fish tacos for dinner.  The marinade for the fish consisted of oregano, cumin, ancho  chile powder, chopped cilantro, and olive oil.  Sliced red pepper soaked in red wine vinegar was also a key ingredient.  The x-factor ingredient would be Mexican crema.  We didn’t feel like making it ourselves, and were surprised to find it at the ever-evolving Kroger’s (Kroger also has its own brand of tortillas that come in nice packets of 10 and not the ginormous family sizes.)  It was the Nestle brand–imported.  Perhaps a bit scary, but somehow a delightful find.  (Details of recipe and source below picture.)

Another good recipe rom the reliable Epicurious.com.

After the prep and marinating, it takes less than 20 minutes to make this:

  • 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
  • About 1 1/2 cups red wine vinegar
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ancho chile powder
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1/4 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves, chopped, plus more for garnish
  • 1 jalapeño, stemmed and chopped
  • 1 pound flaky white fish (such as mahi mahi or cod), cut into 4 pieces
  • Salt
  • 8 fresh corn tortillas
  • Mexican crema, homemade or store-bought
  • Fresh Tomato Salsa
  • 2 limes, cut into quarters

Marinate the Onion
Put the onion in a small bowl and pour in enough red wine vinegar to cover well. Set aside for at least 30 minutes or up to several weeks.

Marinate the Fish
Pour the olive oil into a small bowl and add the ancho chile powder, oregano, cumin, chopped cilantro, and jalapeño. Mix well. Place the fish on a dish and pour the marinade over it, making sure to coat the fish well on both sides. Allow to marinate for 20 minutes.

Cook the Fish
Heat a nonstick sauté pan over medium-high heat. Remove the fish from the marinade and place in the hot pan (there is no need to add more oil). Season the fish with salt. Cook the fish for 4 minutes undisturbed, then turn over, and cook for another 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and flake the fish into the pan with a fork, making sure to mix in all the marinade that has stuck to the bottom of the pan. Check for seasoning and add more salt if necessary. Set aside.

Heat the Tortillas
Place four of the tortillas on a plate and sandwich them between two slightly dampened sheets of paper towel. Microwave on high for 45 seconds. Place the warm tortillas in a towel-lined basket or plate and cover. Repeat with the remaining tortillas.

Assemble and Serve
To assemble the tacos, place a heaping spoonful of the marinated flaked fish onto the center of a tortilla. Top with the marinated onions. Serve accompanied by Mexican crema and salsa.

Garnish with lime wedges and cilantro sprigs.

Dinner: Mussels alla Diavola

February 24, 2010

Mussels seem to be aplenty these days in Nashville’s grocery stores.  So we brought some home for dinner and used the Epicurious.com recipe below–an easy, 35-minute recipe.  Each bag sold only has 2 lbs. of mussels, and though the recipe calls for 3 lbs.–there were more than enough mussels for us.

  • 12 garlic cloves, minced (1/3 cup)
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons dried hot red pepper flakes
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 1 (28-oz) can whole tomatoes in purée
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 2 teaspoons dried oregano, crumbled
  • 1 teaspoon dried basil, crumbled
  • 1/4 cup drained bottled capers (1 1/4 oz)
  • 1/2 cup Kalamata or other brine-cured black olives (3 oz), pitted and chopped
  • 1/3 cup dry red wine
  • 1 lb dried linguine
  • 3 lb mussels (preferably cultivated), cleaned (see cooks’ note, below)

Cook garlic and red pepper flakes in oil in a deep 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring, until fragrant but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add tomatoes with purée, tomato paste, herbs, capers, olives, and wine and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally and breaking up tomatoes, until sauce is thick, about 15 minutes.

Cook linguine in a 6- to 8-quart pot of boiling salted water until al dente, then drain in a colander.

While pasta cooks, increase heat under sauce to moderately high and add mussels, then cook, covered, until mussels just open wide, checking frequently after 3 minutes and transferring to a bowl. (Discard any mussels that remain unopened after 6 minutes.)

Serve linguine with mussels and sauce.

Cooks’ notes:

· Just before cooking, clean mussels by scrubbing them well with a brush under cold water and scraping off any barnacles with a knife. If beard is still attached, remove it by pulling it from tip to hinge or by pulling and cutting it off with knife.
· Tomato sauce, without mussels, can be made 2 days ahead and chilled, covered.

As if the publishing gods have been reading our recent posts about Chinese food, there’s a fun article, by Calvin Trillin, in this week’s New Yorker about the roving Chinese food chef, Peter Chang.  He has a cult following south of the Mason Dixon line, where he moves across state lines without much explanation or forewarning.

Rumor had it that he was once in Nashville, but truth be told, he was actually in Knoxville.

If you’re reading this Mr. Chang (or anyone reading for Mr. Chang), please visit us in Nashville.

The good folks at nashvillerestaurants.blogspot.com have confirmed rumors that Lucky Bamboo, the new Chinese restaurant on Charlotte Ave., is serving dim sum on the weekends.

Lucky Bamboo
5855 Charlotte Pike
Nashville, TN 37209-3101
615.457.3133

We’ve been waiting to visit the restaurant, waiting until they work out the service and restaurant snafus.  Customer reviews and nashvillerestaurants suggest a rough opening right now.

There’s even some hint that this might be one of Nashville’s few attempts at a “good Chinese” restaurant–as opposed to what I’ve recently noted in my last post.

Chinese Food in Nashville

February 20, 2010

In America, there’s good Chinese food and bad Chinese food.  Let me explain:  good Chinese food is served up by restaurants that attempt to offer un-Americanized or regional Chinese food. They don’t do buffets, and they don’t put sushi dishes or rolls on their menus.  They can come across as rude to English-speaking customers.  They often have untranslated menus in Chinese characters.  They offer feet, innards, and things not available at Harris Teeter, Kroger’s, Whole Foods, Publix, or Trader Joe’s.  There are a variety of Chinese vegetables.  They may have algae-infested tanks of crustaceans, fish, and eel.  Service is dependably lousy.  They don’t apologize or explain to customers their way of business; customers deal with it.  Nashville has no such restaurant.  A sad reality.

What we do have, however, are bad  Chinese restaurants.  This means buffet lunches, “chicken McNugget on a stick” (as heard from a fellow diner recently), sauces in packets, chicken breasts only, broccoli as your only vegetable, a brown rice option, and vegetarian egg rolls.  These restaurants serve up food they think Nashvillians imagine what Chinese food should be.  We have a variety of such restaurants.  It’s all a matter of figuring out:  which are the good bad-Chinese-food restaurants?

Probably the most well-known and consistent example of a bad-Chinese-food restaurant is PF Chang’s on West End.  Desperate for any kind of Chinese food when we first moved here, we ate there a few times.  First impression:  there’s nothing more offensive than a waiter coming up to our table and asking if we’ve ever had Chinese food before–only to then explain it’s served family style.  [Ask if we’ve been to PF Chang’s before, and that’ll go over better.]  I don’t need you to explain the sauces at the table either, thanks.  Second impression, we once asked a server if they had bok choy that night.  She turned to us and asked incredulously, “What, you think this is a real Chinese restaurant?”  Confirmation that this is another bad-Chinese-food restaurant.  Golden Coast, August Moon, Chinatown, et al. fall under this category–albeit at a cheaper price.

There are days when I’m craving Chinese food, and I drive all over town.  I’m hoping for the best bad-Chinese food that will churn my stomach the least.  I return most often to:

China Spring (next to the Melrose Kroger)
2613 Franklin Pike
Nashville, TN 37204-3042
615.386.3892‎

It’s a buffet-ed lunch, though with an interesting lunch crowd.  Their buffet’s meat dishes are all variations of chicken, save the beef and broccoli.  For lunch or dinner, you can always order off the regular menu and get decent dishes.  Not a sit-down dinner place, but more of a take-out dinner option.  Strip-mall architecture and decor.  Nevertheless, they at least play Chinese music, and the food is cooked with fresh ingredients.  The gentleman who works the cash register can be charmingly snarky.  To-go portions are quite bountiful, and their low-mein is worth a try.  So goodly bad, it doesn’t have its own website.

Another Visit to Thai Phooket

February 20, 2010

A second visit:

Thai Phooket
207 Woodland
Nashville, TN 37213
615-248-7933

We had a friend in town, and figured we’d have an easy, delicious meal at Thai Phooket, which we were more than enthusiastic about our first time there. Our second visit, however, was quite disappointing.  Right when we sat down, the out-of-place roadhouse felt too cold. The whole place was a walk-in cooler, even when the waiter brought out a heater for our table.  He recommended some apps, and the only interesting one was shrimps on a stick, wrapped with egg noodles–fried to a crisp.  The sweet-chili sauce, though, tasted generic.

For entrees, we let the waiter recommend some dishes.  Again, we had the whole tilapia, flash fried and then steamed with ginger and served in a rich sauce .  This time, however, the tilapia was not fresh.  We also had a duck dish that was supposed to be steamed–as described on the menu and reaffirmed by the waiter.  But when it came it, the duck had been chopped and fried.  Not what we expected, and fried to the point of diminishing any quality of the duck.  We also had skewered breasts, which were grilled and topped with a sauce.  The dish was fine.  But none of the dishes stood on their own.  They seemed like redundant meat dishes with slightly different types of sauce and the same garnishes.

The new skinny on Thai Phooket:  Wide-ranging, ambitious menu, compared to Nashville’s other Thai restaurants.  But it can be inconsistent with food quality and prep.  Hit or miss on certain dishes, and uncomfortable in the winter.

This Pickle decided to treat her Fried to some morning decadence.  I searched online to find a recipe that combined his favorite ingredients: crab, eggs, and avocado.  I passed on all the sushi combinations and crabs Benedict.  Finally I found just the recipe to whet his Cajun appetite:  Crab Avocado Frittata.

The mix of Gruyère chees, lump crab, avocado, eggs, and heavy cream was to-die-for.  I plated the frittata atop arugula with a shallot vinaigrette.  The recipe took only 20 minutes plus another 20 minutes in the oven.

Cake, Cake, and Cake

February 13, 2010

Recently we had a three-for-one birthday party, and Joy from Marmalleta Bakery made the cakes pictured above.  Despite the 100+ years  celebrated at the fete, the three cakes became the focal point.  I requested a mocha cake (decadently buttery and subtle), and the other two were of the carrot and velvet variety.  Many, many revelers hailed the carrot cake as the best they’ve every had, while others insisted on the velvet.  A humorous debate ensued because the cakes were so damned good.

No storefront yet, but you can special order from Marmalleta.  Joy’s work is a sign of Nashville’s growing number of food artisans.

Joy wrote about the process and details of making our gateaux on her blog.

Update: More B&C BBQ

February 12, 2010

B&C Melrose BBQ
2617 Franklin Pk #112
Nashville, TN 37204
615.457.3473

For the Saints’ victorious Super Bowl, the host of our party ordered pulled chicken (8.5/lb) , pulled pork (7.5/lb), and beef brisket (10.5/lb)–a pound each, along with some sides.  An hour or so before the game, the food was ordered, while some provisions were picked up from Kroger.  All of the food was neatly packaged in circular plastic containers.  The three ordered meats were enough for eight people, all of whom had at least two sandwiches, and some had three servings.  The overall consensus was a thumbs up for the food.  Everyone noted the easiness and affordability of catering from B&C.  There was particular enthusiasm for the hot bbq–as opposed to the milder version and the honey mustard sauce, which was still in an experimental phase.

For me, the meats had varying degrees of dryness.  I preferred the pulled pork the most.  With the hot sauce the sandwich was good, but not great. The brisket was tender, but could have used more time in the pit to develop the smokiness and crust.  My favorite side dish was the baked beans.  They had a great, peculiar taste to them, perhaps a hint of Sriracha hot sauce (but don’t quote me on that).  I recall some pizza-flavored grits, but that just sounded like Cool Ranch Doritos further chemically morphed into grit form.  The others grits were garlic-cheese grits, which were rich and well-balanced.   Every day B&C offers different grits, which seem to have a drier, more polenta-like consistency than breakfast grits.  My other primary side was cerveza, but we shouldn’t hold B&C accountable for that.

After keeping tabs on people’s B&C experience, my guess is:  folks will cater or dine with B&C if they’re in the Melrose neighborhood or if they’re looking for a super affordable option.  The food didn’t generate enough excitement for it to be a bbq destination.  It’s a good neighborhood option that seems to be quite consistent in what it offers.

B&C will always be special to me: its bbq is my madeleine for a Who-Dat victory!

Mr. White was spotted ordering to-go burgers at Gabby’s.

We’ve already tried to convince you to eat at Gabby’s here.  Great burgers, great atmosphere, and super cool customers.

Contrary to popular assumption, growing up in New Orleans is not a childhood of reverie in the French Quarter. I remember, most vividly, the city’s dark earth tones–derivations of the delta’s black, black soil: the spiraling gray of Spanish moss, the camouflage olive of turtles we sought in the woods, the muddied red of crawfish, the bottom-fed, dulled silver of catfish, the aging concrete of above-ground tombs, the rusty surface of the mighty Mississippi, the anodized bronze of the  Superdome, the lackluster gold of the Saints’ uniform.  To this day, decades later, I associate the Gulf of Mexico with a constant overcast sky, drab waters without a touch of ocean blue.  These colors and the milieu they foster–like the suffocating humidity–made me feel as if I was living below sea-level, even if, as a child, I was not cognizant of the fact.

I did not know of the city’ Garden District, its fancy restaurants, its Mardi Gras balls, its kings and queens.  What I did know were the red beans and rice, jambalaya, and corn bread served at the school cafeteria; the po-boy stands; the dacquiri drive-thru’s, Gulf shrimp and oysters; and the sucking of crawfish heads.   Only when I lived elsewhere Southern, moved out West, and visited up North did I realize that all of that food was specific only to New Orleans–not America as a whole.  In turn, what made me a native of New Orleans were spontaneous cravings for gumbo and boudin.  But only in retrospect did I learn about my New Orleans identity through food.

Growing up on the West Bank, in an immigrant family still naive about American life, my fandom for the Saints was the only way for me to imagine myself as part of the city’s culture.   On Sundays, my family sat in our modest ranch home and rallied for the New Orleans Saints.  We believed in Louisiana’s sole Danish celebrity:  Morten Andersen, the side-armed Archie Manning, the graying Ken Stabler, the post-USFL Bobby Hebert, Bum Phillips’s cowboy hat, the undersized Sam Mills, the pass rush of Pat Swilling–the patois of Who Dat!–only to be disappointed.  But I was New Orleans…that much I knew and felt, even then as a child.

I returned to New Orleans shortly after Katrina to do some reporting.  One Sunday, I visited a convention center that had turned into the makeshift home for hundreds of the city’s victims.  It was a tent city, boxed in by concrete.  It was somber and bleak and quiet…until an eruption of cheer startled me.  A local electronics dealer had provided some televisions, and of course, it was a football-season Sunday, so folks were watching the Saints.  Displaced and distraught, everyone commingled and rallied as a city.  (The Saints beat the Carolina Panthers that day.)  And as a native son, I understood why those people–strangers to each other–huddled and crowded over those plastic, lit boxes.  Too often in that gray, submerged city, there is too little to hope for–except went the Saints go marching.

Earlier this week, I was in need of a late lunch and headed to B&C bbq, Melrose locale.  (We’ve anticipated its opening here.)

2617 Franklin Pike
(8th Ave. Kroger shopping center)
Nashville, TN 37204
615.457.3473

B&C is on the southern corner of 8th Ave’s Kroger strip mall.  The interior proper has a service counter, no tables, and a long bar for those willing to stand and eat (love that detail).  There is an outdoor seating area that is covered and heated.  But it seems like the operation is set up for fast to-go/pick-up service.

The menu at this location is simlar to their farmers’ market offerings.  With the price point, I figured this would be the first of many spur-of-the-moment visits.  The business is still getting into full swing (appetizers and beer not available yet).  I ordered the jumbo pulled pork sandwich ($4.5).  The pork had nice texture and moisture.  The bun was warm, though too floppy to hold together all the pork  in between.  I added B&C’s mild and hot bbq sauce to the sandwich.  Good bbq sandwich, though nothing to spark oohs and ahhs.  My side of choice was the mac-and-cheese ($1.25).  The pasta was periwinkle-sized shells with rich cheese.  They got this classic dish right and spiced it up with a nice amount of pepper.

I’m willing to continue visiting B&C, particularly to try its daily specials:  smoked salmon, the ribs, smoked chicken.  Not to mention the other sides.  I liked it enough to convince my Super Bowl party host to cater Sunday’s hyper-event with B&C goodies.  Uber-good deals for catering:  for example, pulled pork is $7.5/lb and pulled chicken is $8.5/lb.

Update review on the B&C bbq catered for the Super Bowl (posted on 2/12):

For the Saints’ victorious Super Bowl, the host of our party ordered pulled chicken (8.5/lb) , pulled pork (7.5/lb), and beef brisket (10.5/lb)–a pound each, along with some sides.  An hour or so before the game, the food was ordered, while some provisions were picked up from Kroger.  All of the food were neatly packaged in circular plastic containers.  The three ordered meats were enough for eight people, all of whom had at least two sandwiches, and some had three servings.  The overall consensus was a thumbs up for the food.  Everyone noted the easiness and affordability of catering from B&C.  There was particular enthusiasm for the hot bbq–as opposed to the milder version and the honey mustard sauce, which was still in the experimental phase.

For me, the meats had different varying degrees of dryness.  I preferred the pulled pork the most.  With the hot sauce the sandwich was good, but not great. The brisket was tender, but could have used more time in the pit to develop the smokiness and crust. My favorite side dish was the baked beans.  They had a great, peculiar taste to them, perhaps a hint of Sriracha hot sauce (but don’t quote me on that).  I recall some pizza-flavored grits, but that just sounded like Cool Ranch Doritos further chemically morphed into grit form.  The others grits were garlic-cheese grits, which were rich and

well-balanced. Every day B&C offers different grits, which seem to have a drier, more polenta-like consistency than breakfast grits. My other primary side was cerveza, but we shouldn’t hold B&C accountable for that.

After keeping tabs on people’s B&C experience, my guess is:  folks will cater or dine with B&C if they’re in the Melrose neighborhood or if they’re looking for a super affordable option.  The food didn’t generate enough excitement for it to be a bbq destination.  It’s a good neighborhood option that seems to be quite consistent in what it offers.

B&C will always be special to me: its bbq is my madeleine for a Who-Date victory!

B & C Melrose BBQ on Urbanspoon

NYC Recommendation

February 4, 2010

A friend asked us for a restaurant recommendation for NYC, based on our recent stay there.  Robataya comes second, but hands down we vote for:

Aldea
31 W 17th St
NY, NY 10011
212.675.7223

A loving parent wanted to take us out for dinner, and that Saturday she got us a reservation for 8 pm at Aldea. The last-minute availability made us a bit skeptical, but while perusing TONY’s 2009 best dishes, we realized that there were two Aldea dishes in the article (Appetizer: sea urchin toast; Entree: arroz de pato). We perked up after learning about these dishes, but did not anticipate such a fine affair.

Aldea is a Portuguese restuarant, and its chef is George Mendes.  The restaurant is nestled in a long, narrow space with clean lines and minimally elegant decor–perhaps belying the complexity of food that Mendes serves up.  Our table started off with a pestico, appetizer, and charcuterie.  The sea urchin toast was better than promised:  the fragile balance of the sea urchin, cauliflower cream, and sea lettuce was unbelievable in its imagination and execution.  The caramelized lychee that accompanied the cuttlefish appetizer had the same imaginative flair, but 2/3 of the table weren’t completely seduced by the baby cuttlefish.  The foie gras terrine had the right infusion of sweetness and richness.  It was gout-inducing decadence, but with a moderation that made us want more.

As an entree that seems to be too many things duck (confited legs, poached breasts, and CRACKLINGS!), the arroz de pato brought out the best qualities of duck (savory, rich tenderness), set against saffron rice cooked just right and garnished with olives to give one last zing.  A had the lamb dish–loin and belly. We’d  never seen lamb belly on a menu before, but it was fabulous.  Not as fatty as pork belly, but with an earthy flavor.  L wanted her arctic char grilled with no salt, no nada, and the kitchen managed to turn those requests into a good dish, with everything on the side.

The service, from the front of the house to the runners, was attentive.  Our waiter was an abd, Berkeley grad student (is there a better way to get at our hearts?) who knew his wines well and suggested bottles and glasses that complimented each course.  So much so that I don’t seem to recall the finer details of our desserts.  We stayed and lingered much later than we normally would, to soak in and prolong the experience.

Speculating on the easily obtained reservation and not-so packed house (there weren’t that many turns the night we were there), the problem with Aldea is actually its under-priced menu (entrees:  $23-$28).  The undervalue here compliments too well the understated restaurant–thus it’s unable to create a constant buzz.  The opposite can be said of another memorable NY experience we had:   Scarpetta, which has the most amazing spaghetti (touche Bruni), but the din of the pretentious crowd and the obsequious service was a bit over the top.

Make that reservation at Aldea, T-Bone.

Aldea on Urbanspoon

To further enjoy the rare snow shower in Nashville, I decided to make a big pot of pho, the classic Vietnamese soup.  My thinking: the aroma of the broth’s anise, charred onion and ginger, and cinnamon would pcozy up the house.  And the hearty pot would feed us for days, in case we didn’t feel like trudging very far in the snow.  Hungry friends who found their way to Chez Vu would also find some comfort in the soup’s warmth.  However, making a beef soup from scratch in Nashville always presents a problem:  where to get the beef bones.  (But before discussing this quandary, a picture of the soup.)

It’s already difficult enough buying quality meats in town, but it’s nearly impossible to buy bones, even chicken bones, for soup.  If meats are being processed for Nashville, where are all the bones?  Why not sell them?  Is everything processed in remote locations that make it too costly to ship the bones (which means not very fresh meats)?  Or is this symptomatic of both Nashville’s cooking habits (demand) and the state of our city’s butchering (supply)?  Or is there some unknown reason why grocery stores don’t sell bones?

The problems of purchasing soup bones derive from the evolution of butchering in Nashville.  First, small butcher shops have become extinct.  Anecdotal stories we’ve heard attribute this to big-chain grocery stores arriving in the ’50s and 60s.  They aggressively low-balled their meats to price out independent butchers.  Nashville’s last attempt at old-school, neighborhood-feel butchering seems to have been Todd’s Butcher Shop on Charlotte.  It closed in 2008.  The big-box grocery stores still sell meats packaged elsewhere, with no bones to be found in the back.  The same can be said of the newcomer Trader Joe’s.  The other new grocer on the Nashville block, Whole Foods, has butchers working in the back–slicing and dicing the meat, but alas no bones are sold, even when asked.

On Nolenvsille and Charlotte Pke are halal markets that offer mutton, lamb, chicken (fresh and at great prices)–but no beef bones (chicken bones yes).  There are also the K&S outposts on both of these roads, and they do have the bones I’m looking for.  But they’re always frozen and brown, with their packaging ripped, and thus they’re coated in crystallized frost–all of which makes me question the quality.  (Some connoisseurs insist that ox tails are the secret ingredient to pho.  In this case, K&S would be the place in town to go.)

More recently, there have been meat vendors at the Farmers’ Market.  These folks raise their own cows, chickens, and pigs sustainably and free-range.   They offer beef bones upon request–often under the misnomer “dog bones.”  The prices are steep–which I don’t mind.  But too often the flavoring is not as rich as I’d like them, and even more difficult, the bones are not cut properly by the processors.  The same can be said for the underutilized “eye round” cut/roast.  (When you order the fresh/raw meat version of pho, this is the cut most often used.)  The eye round cuts that I’ve bought from different vendors have been hacked up in all different kinds of ways.  This option is too frustrating and expensive.

All this is to say that I have little choice but to buy pho bones from Whole Foods–at a compromise of $7/lb for short ribs (x 3 lbs.).  Already too expensive, these bones don’t have the marrow which would add that special flavoring to the pot.

We need more bones in this town!